batk collar: The Barking Dog
Fears And Phobias
Your dog's barking may be a response to something he's afraid of if:
The barking occurs when he's exposed to loud noises, such as thunderstorms firecrackers or construction equipment.
Your dog's posture indicates fear -- ears back, tail held low.
Recommendations:
Identify what's frightening your dog and desensitize him to it (see our handout: "Helping Your Dog Overcome the Fear of Thunder and Other Startling Noises"). You may need professional help with the desensitization process. Check with your veterinarian about anti-anxiety medication while you work on behavior modification.
Mute noise from outside by leaving your dog in a basement or windowless bathroom and leave on a television, radio or loud fan. Block off your dog's access to outdoor views that might be causing a fear response, by closing curtains or doors to certain rooms.
Separation Anxiety
Your dog may be barking due to separation anxiety if:
The barking occurs only when you're gone and starts as soon as, or shortly after, you leave.
Your dog displays other behaviors that reflect a strong attachment to you, such as following you from room to room, frantic greetings or reacting anxiously to your preparations to leave.
Your dog has recently experienced: a change in the family's schedule that results in his being left alone more often; a move to a new house; the death or loss of a family member or another family pet; or a period at an animal shelter or boarding kennel.
Recommendations:
Separation anxiety can be resolved using counter-conditioning and desensitization techniques (see our handout: "Separation Anxiety").
Bark Collars
Bark collars are specially designed to deliver an aversive whenever your dog barks. There are several different kinds of bark collars:
Citronella Collar: This collar contains a reservoir of citronella solution that sprays into your dog's face every time he barks. A citronella collar is considered humane and a recent study reported an 88% rate of success with the use of this collar. One possible drawback is that the collar contains a microphone, so the aversive is delivered in response to the sound of the bark. Therefore, other noises may set off the collar, causing your dog to be sprayed even if he hasn't barked. Also, some dogs can tell when the citronella reservoir is empty and will resume barking.
Aversive Sound Collar: This collar emits a high-frequency sound when your dog barks. Some are activated by the noise of the bark, while others are hand-held and activated by a handler. The rate of success for this type of collar is reportedly rather low.
Electric Shock Collar: We don't recommend an electric shock collar to control your dog's barking. The electric shock is painful to your dog and many dogs will choose to endure the pain and continue barking. The success rate of this type of collar is less than 50%.
The main drawback of any bark collar is that it doesn't address the underlying cause of the barking. You may be able to eliminate the barking, but symptom substitution may occur and your dog may begin digging, escaping, or become destructive or even aggressive. The use of a bark collar must be in conjunction with behavior modification based on the reason for the barking, as outlined above. You should never use a bark collar on your dog if his barking is due to separation anxiety, fears or phobias, because punishment always makes fear and anxiety behaviors worse.
Copyright Denver Dumb Friends League and Humane Society of the United States. All rights reserved. Used with permission.
Your dog's barking may be a response to something he's afraid of if:
The barking occurs when he's exposed to loud noises, such as thunderstorms firecrackers or construction equipment.
Your dog's posture indicates fear -- ears back, tail held low.
Recommendations:
Identify what's frightening your dog and desensitize him to it (see our handout: "Helping Your Dog Overcome the Fear of Thunder and Other Startling Noises"). You may need professional help with the desensitization process. Check with your veterinarian about anti-anxiety medication while you work on behavior modification.
Mute noise from outside by leaving your dog in a basement or windowless bathroom and leave on a television, radio or loud fan. Block off your dog's access to outdoor views that might be causing a fear response, by closing curtains or doors to certain rooms.
Separation Anxiety
Your dog may be barking due to separation anxiety if:
The barking occurs only when you're gone and starts as soon as, or shortly after, you leave.
Your dog displays other behaviors that reflect a strong attachment to you, such as following you from room to room, frantic greetings or reacting anxiously to your preparations to leave.
Your dog has recently experienced: a change in the family's schedule that results in his being left alone more often; a move to a new house; the death or loss of a family member or another family pet; or a period at an animal shelter or boarding kennel.
Recommendations:
Separation anxiety can be resolved using counter-conditioning and desensitization techniques (see our handout: "Separation Anxiety").
Bark Collars
Bark collars are specially designed to deliver an aversive whenever your dog barks. There are several different kinds of bark collars:
Citronella Collar: This collar contains a reservoir of citronella solution that sprays into your dog's face every time he barks. A citronella collar is considered humane and a recent study reported an 88% rate of success with the use of this collar. One possible drawback is that the collar contains a microphone, so the aversive is delivered in response to the sound of the bark. Therefore, other noises may set off the collar, causing your dog to be sprayed even if he hasn't barked. Also, some dogs can tell when the citronella reservoir is empty and will resume barking.
Aversive Sound Collar: This collar emits a high-frequency sound when your dog barks. Some are activated by the noise of the bark, while others are hand-held and activated by a handler. The rate of success for this type of collar is reportedly rather low.
Electric Shock Collar: We don't recommend an electric shock collar to control your dog's barking. The electric shock is painful to your dog and many dogs will choose to endure the pain and continue barking. The success rate of this type of collar is less than 50%.
The main drawback of any bark collar is that it doesn't address the underlying cause of the barking. You may be able to eliminate the barking, but symptom substitution may occur and your dog may begin digging, escaping, or become destructive or even aggressive. The use of a bark collar must be in conjunction with behavior modification based on the reason for the barking, as outlined above. You should never use a bark collar on your dog if his barking is due to separation anxiety, fears or phobias, because punishment always makes fear and anxiety behaviors worse.
Copyright Denver Dumb Friends League and Humane Society of the United States. All rights reserved. Used with permission.
bark collar: Tools to Help Train Dogs and Cats
Section: How to Train the Right Way
So you want to train your dog and it's just not happening. You say, "sit" and he just looks at you. You say, "stay" and he runs away. But you know there must be some way to train your pooch.
There is, and this is what you need to know: Training is most effective when dogs or cats are rewarded for the good — or desirable — things they do, and are ignored, corrected, or redirected when they don’t do what you should.
Training Products
A variety of training and behavior modification devices is available through pet supply stores, catalogs, and online. When used as part of a broad plan, such products can be very useful for pet owners. But remember, they are only tools to help change your pet's behavior and will not train the dog themselves.
Products available include: training collars, bark deterrents, booby-trap devices, direct “punishers,” and remote-control training devices. Because so much of training involves stopping unwanted behavior, many of these products are based on the punishment principle.
It’s helpful, however, to keep in mind that behaviors can be interrupted and redirected by products that aren’t particularly unpleasant — and are certainly not painful — for your dog or cat. Whatever method you use to train your dog or cat, it is important to reward your companion for doing things that you approve of — whether sitting, walking calmly on a leash, being quiet for a while, greeting you without jumping, or – especially for cats – staying off counters.
Collars and Harnesses
Conventional buckle collars are fine for dogs or puppies that don’t pull while walking on lead. If your dog pulls, consider using a head collar (a.k.a. head halter). Several styles of head collar are available, each varying slightly in design.
An example is the Gentle Leader™, formerly called the Promise™ collar (Premier Pet Products, Richmond, Va., 800-933-5595). Specially designed harnesses, such as the No Pull Halter™ (Four Paws Products Ltd., Hauppauge, N.Y., 631-434-1100), are also effective in some dogs.
Any of these devices is more useful to the average dog owner — and less unpleasant for the average dog — than the often-misused choke or prong collars.
Bark Deterrents
Anxiety-based barking should first be addressed by treating the source — e.g. separation anxiety — of your dog’s distress. When barking isn't a symptom of anxiety, an anti-bark collar may have the desired effect. Such collars work by sensing the bark and causing some unpleasant effect, such as an audible signal (clicking or buzzing) or electrical stimulation (shock). An effective alternative recently introduced into the pet market is a collar that briefly emits a spray of citronella oil, which surprises — but doesn’t hurt — your dog. Citronella-emitting anti-bark collars are available from Animal Behavior Systems, Inc., Tampa, Fla. (800-627-9447).
Remote Training
When unwanted behavior occurs at a distance from the handler — an example might be fence running by a dog in a back yard — it’s most effective to correct or interrupt the behavior at the moment it occurs. A remote-control interruption device can help achieve this aim. Such a device is typically applied to the dog’s collar and is controlled by the handler, who’s standing a distance away. The appliance works by emitting a stimulus that distracts or punishes the dog. One such remote control device triggers a burst of citronella spray to interrupt unwanted behaviors so that your dog will then respond to, for example, a “come” command. Such a device is the Master Plus™ (Animal Behavior Systems, Inc., Tampa, Fla., 800-627-9447).
Throw Chains
Small hand-held devices (made of chain links) that are thrown to land near and surprise your dog have a similar effect to remote training collars - but they are tricky to aim accurately.
Booby Traps and Environmental Devices
If your dog or cat misbehaves in specific locations in your absence – for example, climbing on the sofa or kitchen counters, or invading the garbage – it may be useful to set a “booby trap” to consistently remind your pet that these locations are off-limits.
There are many products that serve this purpose, including the Scat Mat™ (which delivers a minor static-like stimulus when stepped upon) and Snappy Trainer™ (a safe mousetrap-like device designed to surprise the dog or cat without causing pain). Indoor containment systems, such as the citronella-spraying Spray Barrier™ (Animal Behavior Systems, Inc., Tampa, FL, 800-627-9447) can effectively keep your dog or cat out of a specified area of your home.
Exercise and Food-Based Toys
To occupy the interests of a pet who might otherwise get into mischief with digging, scratching, barking or some other unwanted behavior, consider the use of a food-filled toy. Arrange for the food contained in them to be a challenge to extract - so that your pet is kept busy for hours trying to get the food out. Freezing goopy food (peanut butter or spay cheese) inside the food puzzle has this effect. Such products work best if they’re kept out of sight until needed. Examples include: Kong™ toys (Kong Products, Lakewood, Colo., 303-233-9262); Nylabone™ toys (Nylabone Products, TFH Publications, Neptune, N.J., 908-988-8400); and Pavlov's Cat™ (Del-West Enterprises, San Diego, Calif., 619-689-9999).
It is important to keep an open mind when training your favorite four-legged companion. Modifying his behavior may be a challenge at first, but with a little patience, perseverance, and love, you can bet that the process will be successful in the end!
© Copyright 1999-2006 Intelligent Content Corp., All Rights Reserved
So you want to train your dog and it's just not happening. You say, "sit" and he just looks at you. You say, "stay" and he runs away. But you know there must be some way to train your pooch.
There is, and this is what you need to know: Training is most effective when dogs or cats are rewarded for the good — or desirable — things they do, and are ignored, corrected, or redirected when they don’t do what you should.
Training Products
A variety of training and behavior modification devices is available through pet supply stores, catalogs, and online. When used as part of a broad plan, such products can be very useful for pet owners. But remember, they are only tools to help change your pet's behavior and will not train the dog themselves.
Products available include: training collars, bark deterrents, booby-trap devices, direct “punishers,” and remote-control training devices. Because so much of training involves stopping unwanted behavior, many of these products are based on the punishment principle.
It’s helpful, however, to keep in mind that behaviors can be interrupted and redirected by products that aren’t particularly unpleasant — and are certainly not painful — for your dog or cat. Whatever method you use to train your dog or cat, it is important to reward your companion for doing things that you approve of — whether sitting, walking calmly on a leash, being quiet for a while, greeting you without jumping, or – especially for cats – staying off counters.
Collars and Harnesses
Conventional buckle collars are fine for dogs or puppies that don’t pull while walking on lead. If your dog pulls, consider using a head collar (a.k.a. head halter). Several styles of head collar are available, each varying slightly in design.
An example is the Gentle Leader™, formerly called the Promise™ collar (Premier Pet Products, Richmond, Va., 800-933-5595). Specially designed harnesses, such as the No Pull Halter™ (Four Paws Products Ltd., Hauppauge, N.Y., 631-434-1100), are also effective in some dogs.
Any of these devices is more useful to the average dog owner — and less unpleasant for the average dog — than the often-misused choke or prong collars.
Bark Deterrents
Anxiety-based barking should first be addressed by treating the source — e.g. separation anxiety — of your dog’s distress. When barking isn't a symptom of anxiety, an anti-bark collar may have the desired effect. Such collars work by sensing the bark and causing some unpleasant effect, such as an audible signal (clicking or buzzing) or electrical stimulation (shock). An effective alternative recently introduced into the pet market is a collar that briefly emits a spray of citronella oil, which surprises — but doesn’t hurt — your dog. Citronella-emitting anti-bark collars are available from Animal Behavior Systems, Inc., Tampa, Fla. (800-627-9447).
Remote Training
When unwanted behavior occurs at a distance from the handler — an example might be fence running by a dog in a back yard — it’s most effective to correct or interrupt the behavior at the moment it occurs. A remote-control interruption device can help achieve this aim. Such a device is typically applied to the dog’s collar and is controlled by the handler, who’s standing a distance away. The appliance works by emitting a stimulus that distracts or punishes the dog. One such remote control device triggers a burst of citronella spray to interrupt unwanted behaviors so that your dog will then respond to, for example, a “come” command. Such a device is the Master Plus™ (Animal Behavior Systems, Inc., Tampa, Fla., 800-627-9447).
Throw Chains
Small hand-held devices (made of chain links) that are thrown to land near and surprise your dog have a similar effect to remote training collars - but they are tricky to aim accurately.
Booby Traps and Environmental Devices
If your dog or cat misbehaves in specific locations in your absence – for example, climbing on the sofa or kitchen counters, or invading the garbage – it may be useful to set a “booby trap” to consistently remind your pet that these locations are off-limits.
There are many products that serve this purpose, including the Scat Mat™ (which delivers a minor static-like stimulus when stepped upon) and Snappy Trainer™ (a safe mousetrap-like device designed to surprise the dog or cat without causing pain). Indoor containment systems, such as the citronella-spraying Spray Barrier™ (Animal Behavior Systems, Inc., Tampa, FL, 800-627-9447) can effectively keep your dog or cat out of a specified area of your home.
Exercise and Food-Based Toys
To occupy the interests of a pet who might otherwise get into mischief with digging, scratching, barking or some other unwanted behavior, consider the use of a food-filled toy. Arrange for the food contained in them to be a challenge to extract - so that your pet is kept busy for hours trying to get the food out. Freezing goopy food (peanut butter or spay cheese) inside the food puzzle has this effect. Such products work best if they’re kept out of sight until needed. Examples include: Kong™ toys (Kong Products, Lakewood, Colo., 303-233-9262); Nylabone™ toys (Nylabone Products, TFH Publications, Neptune, N.J., 908-988-8400); and Pavlov's Cat™ (Del-West Enterprises, San Diego, Calif., 619-689-9999).
It is important to keep an open mind when training your favorite four-legged companion. Modifying his behavior may be a challenge at first, but with a little patience, perseverance, and love, you can bet that the process will be successful in the end!
© Copyright 1999-2006 Intelligent Content Corp., All Rights Reserved
bark collar: gentle spray anti-bark collar
Immediately and humanely stop problem barking. This bark collar can be used with any breed of dog that is at least 6 months old and weighs 6 lbs. or more.
The Gentle Spray citronella Anti-Bark Collar is the most effective and humane solution for nuisance barking. Stop the problem barking! Recommended by leading veterinarians, behaviorists, and trainers. Gentle Spray uses patented SprayLogik technology to deliver a harmless burst of citronella spray that interrupts your dog's barking. It's two times more effective than shock collars. The spray works on four of the dog's senses - he sees it, hears it, smells it and feels it.
Includes:
anti-bark device (weighs 2.5 oz)
citronella refill
adjustable nylon collar
6-volt battery
detailed instructions and lifetime warranty.
Customer Testimonial
We got one of these for our barker because a behaviorist advised us you can't argue with or reason with a barker when s/he's doing it. It works great and the dog smells terrific. Seriously, we only put it on him when we know he will be in one of those situations where he is likely to bark, such as strangers coming to the house, or a visit to a dog-friendly beach. The darn things are super-expensive, BUT A) they don't hurt like a shock collar and B) they never fail, unlike dog whistles which are only useful on some dogs. Caution: do not sneeze while your dog is sitting on your lap wearing the collar, or you will get a dose, too.
E.Z.
The Gentle Spray citronella Anti-Bark Collar is the most effective and humane solution for nuisance barking. Stop the problem barking! Recommended by leading veterinarians, behaviorists, and trainers. Gentle Spray uses patented SprayLogik technology to deliver a harmless burst of citronella spray that interrupts your dog's barking. It's two times more effective than shock collars. The spray works on four of the dog's senses - he sees it, hears it, smells it and feels it.
Includes:
anti-bark device (weighs 2.5 oz)
citronella refill
adjustable nylon collar
6-volt battery
detailed instructions and lifetime warranty.
Customer Testimonial
We got one of these for our barker because a behaviorist advised us you can't argue with or reason with a barker when s/he's doing it. It works great and the dog smells terrific. Seriously, we only put it on him when we know he will be in one of those situations where he is likely to bark, such as strangers coming to the house, or a visit to a dog-friendly beach. The darn things are super-expensive, BUT A) they don't hurt like a shock collar and B) they never fail, unlike dog whistles which are only useful on some dogs. Caution: do not sneeze while your dog is sitting on your lap wearing the collar, or you will get a dose, too.
E.Z.
bark collar: NO TIME LIKE NOW TO CLEAR OUT DEAD WOOD
One of the most important gardening chores we perform in the spring is pruning. This is the second of three articles dedicated to this task. Last week we talked about the reasons why we prune and the tools we need for the job.
Today, we'll look at cleaning out all the unnecessary and unhealthy wood, the first step to proper pruning. But before we begin, we should know a bit of tree terminology.
We all know what the trunk is -- the big guy that supports the top of the tree. The large branches that make up the tree's framework are called scaffold branches. Growing out of these handsome limbs are smaller branches and twigs which produce buds that have the potential of becoming new branches, leaves and/or flowers. Some of these buds are quite obvious, while others, called latent buds, are more difficult for the untrained eye to spot. (Latent buds are immature, hidden buds which rarely develop unless stimulated by pruning.) With that short course in tree biology, let's go to work. Always remove dead or broken branches first. If you aren't sure if the branch is dead, peel back a little of the bark with your thumbnail. The tissue under the bark should be greenish or light cream in color. If it's brown and dry, you can safely bet the branch is gone. Remove diseased wood, though sometimes this wood may be difficult to diagnose. If branches are oozing, blackened, swollen, sunken or rotting, there is a good chance the plant is sick. However, pruning may only be the first step in controlling the disease. If you notice unnatural or sickly areas in the plant, have it diagnosed before taking action. Before we go on, keep in mind that removing dead and diseased wood can be handled any time of the year. Remove branches that are rubbing together, criss-crossing or growing toward the center of the tree. This may be a two-person operation -- one to pull one branch aside, simulating removal, while the other looks at the remaining shape of the tree. As you know, once a branch is cut off, there is no gluing it back on. Remove all stubs to the branch bark collar. Stubs die and rot, leading to internal decay. The branch collar is a term that is often used in pruning vocabulary, and for sound reason. The branch collar is a swollen area usually conspicuous on the underside of the junction between the scaffold branch and the trunk. It looks sort of like a horse collar and is made up of trunk wood. If we cut flush with the trunk, like we were once taught, we cut into the collar. Damaging the collar prevents the tree from properly sealing off the pruning wound, thus exposing the cut and surrounding area to decay. Remove the water sprouts, all the wild little straight-up branches. Though some trees, such as hawthorn, have a tendency to send up hundreds of these fellows without much provocation, most are the result of pruning cuts or pruning at the wrong time of year. Some sprouts can be trained into strong new branches by weighting them down with rocks held in old pantyhose or the like. Only when the cleaning chore is completed do we prune for shape and beauty. This task is handled with the correct pruning cuts as well as pruning at the right time of year. Because the actual cuts are crucial to the health of the tree, we'll examine how and when to make them, next week. In the meantime, if you're heading out to prune before the last pruning installment, make sure you have the right tools - hand clippers, loppers, pruning saw, pole-pruner and depending upon the job, hedge shears. Keep in mind you are pruning for the health of the tree first and foremost. And above all, DON'T TOP THE TREE! There is absolutely no reason for this devastating practice. Aside from being downright ugly, topping shortens the lifespan of trees and creates potential hazards. Please, seek the knowledge of a certified arborist if you don't understand the information I am presenting to you.
Copyright 1999 Cowles Publishing Company
Provided by ProQuest Information and Learning Company. All rights Reserved.
Today, we'll look at cleaning out all the unnecessary and unhealthy wood, the first step to proper pruning. But before we begin, we should know a bit of tree terminology.
We all know what the trunk is -- the big guy that supports the top of the tree. The large branches that make up the tree's framework are called scaffold branches. Growing out of these handsome limbs are smaller branches and twigs which produce buds that have the potential of becoming new branches, leaves and/or flowers. Some of these buds are quite obvious, while others, called latent buds, are more difficult for the untrained eye to spot. (Latent buds are immature, hidden buds which rarely develop unless stimulated by pruning.) With that short course in tree biology, let's go to work. Always remove dead or broken branches first. If you aren't sure if the branch is dead, peel back a little of the bark with your thumbnail. The tissue under the bark should be greenish or light cream in color. If it's brown and dry, you can safely bet the branch is gone. Remove diseased wood, though sometimes this wood may be difficult to diagnose. If branches are oozing, blackened, swollen, sunken or rotting, there is a good chance the plant is sick. However, pruning may only be the first step in controlling the disease. If you notice unnatural or sickly areas in the plant, have it diagnosed before taking action. Before we go on, keep in mind that removing dead and diseased wood can be handled any time of the year. Remove branches that are rubbing together, criss-crossing or growing toward the center of the tree. This may be a two-person operation -- one to pull one branch aside, simulating removal, while the other looks at the remaining shape of the tree. As you know, once a branch is cut off, there is no gluing it back on. Remove all stubs to the branch bark collar. Stubs die and rot, leading to internal decay. The branch collar is a term that is often used in pruning vocabulary, and for sound reason. The branch collar is a swollen area usually conspicuous on the underside of the junction between the scaffold branch and the trunk. It looks sort of like a horse collar and is made up of trunk wood. If we cut flush with the trunk, like we were once taught, we cut into the collar. Damaging the collar prevents the tree from properly sealing off the pruning wound, thus exposing the cut and surrounding area to decay. Remove the water sprouts, all the wild little straight-up branches. Though some trees, such as hawthorn, have a tendency to send up hundreds of these fellows without much provocation, most are the result of pruning cuts or pruning at the wrong time of year. Some sprouts can be trained into strong new branches by weighting them down with rocks held in old pantyhose or the like. Only when the cleaning chore is completed do we prune for shape and beauty. This task is handled with the correct pruning cuts as well as pruning at the right time of year. Because the actual cuts are crucial to the health of the tree, we'll examine how and when to make them, next week. In the meantime, if you're heading out to prune before the last pruning installment, make sure you have the right tools - hand clippers, loppers, pruning saw, pole-pruner and depending upon the job, hedge shears. Keep in mind you are pruning for the health of the tree first and foremost. And above all, DON'T TOP THE TREE! There is absolutely no reason for this devastating practice. Aside from being downright ugly, topping shortens the lifespan of trees and creates potential hazards. Please, seek the knowledge of a certified arborist if you don't understand the information I am presenting to you.
Copyright 1999 Cowles Publishing Company
Provided by ProQuest Information and Learning Company. All rights Reserved.
bark collar: Humane Society inundated with pets
The Kootenai Humane Society shelter is severely overpopulated, inundated with pets acquired by kids who are now back in school.
The Hayden shelter now has 93 dogs and 151 cats - roughly 30 percent more animals than it is designed to handle. About one out of four animals taken in are eventually euthanized.
Joann Ingwerson, shelter director, said the reasons pets arrive are varied. For some, the signs on their cages make clear their crimes: "Wife didn't like dog" or "Neighbor didn't like dog."
The yearly back-to-school influx is an unfortunate pattern seen every year.
"We, as a society, are a disposable society. We get tired of something, and we dispose of it," Ingwerson said. "Our animals are no different."
Ingwerson suggests people try to fix pet problems before getting rid of them, such as buying a bark collar for a noisy dog.
If a pet truly needs a new home, she suggests placing a newspaper ad. This not only may save an animal's life, but helps new owners find compatible pets.
If you must bring your animal to the shelter, she said, call first. There may not be room.
"I like the shelter to be considered a last resort, not a first resort," Ingwerson said.
Coeur d'Alene resident Allison Shevalier recently adopted a springer spaniel. Junior has been a delight to the family of five.
Prior to adopting Junior, Shevalier said her family had a young golden retriever. Adopted as a puppy, he turned out to be too much dog for the family to handle. But Shevalier never considered taking him to the pound.
"I couldn't bear to think about him sitting in a cage all alone, wondering where we were," Shevalier said. After placing an ad and spreading the word, she eventually found a perfect home for the dog on a large farm near Rose Lake.
She said it saddened her to see all the animals caged at the shelter. She went there for one reason. "I wanted to save an animal's life."
Many shelters, including the Kootenai Humane Society, require that adopted pets be sterilized. It offers reduced costs for spaying and neutering. The result has been a decline in the number of animals euthanized.
The Kootenai Humane Society requires that adopted animals be spayed or neutered within six weeks of leaving the shelter.
Lakeland Litter Control in Rathdrum is one area spay and neuter clinic that performs the service. Veterinarian Sherron McKelvey said sterilization ideally would occur before an animal even leaves the shelter.
It's the only way to truly guarantee success," McKelvey said.
The public can help the animal shelter this busy time of year by providing foster care for animals or donating supplies, such as towels, blankets, cat litter, food, and cleaning supplies.
Kootenai Humane Society has also reduced the adoption rate by $10 for each animal in an effort to find more homes for more animals.
This sidebar appeared with the story:
Fast facts
Nationwide, as many as 10 million cats and dogs end up in animal shelters each year. About half are euthanized.
One fertile female cat can produce up to three litters in a year, with roughly four to six kittens per litter.
A fertile female dog can produce slightly less, having roughly two litters per year with six to 10 pups.
For more information on spaying or neutering, call your veterinarian or the Kootenai Humane Society at 772-4019.
Copyright 2002 Cowles Publishing Company
Provided by ProQuest Information and Learning Company. All rights Reserved.
The Hayden shelter now has 93 dogs and 151 cats - roughly 30 percent more animals than it is designed to handle. About one out of four animals taken in are eventually euthanized.
Joann Ingwerson, shelter director, said the reasons pets arrive are varied. For some, the signs on their cages make clear their crimes: "Wife didn't like dog" or "Neighbor didn't like dog."
The yearly back-to-school influx is an unfortunate pattern seen every year.
"We, as a society, are a disposable society. We get tired of something, and we dispose of it," Ingwerson said. "Our animals are no different."
Ingwerson suggests people try to fix pet problems before getting rid of them, such as buying a bark collar for a noisy dog.
If a pet truly needs a new home, she suggests placing a newspaper ad. This not only may save an animal's life, but helps new owners find compatible pets.
If you must bring your animal to the shelter, she said, call first. There may not be room.
"I like the shelter to be considered a last resort, not a first resort," Ingwerson said.
Coeur d'Alene resident Allison Shevalier recently adopted a springer spaniel. Junior has been a delight to the family of five.
Prior to adopting Junior, Shevalier said her family had a young golden retriever. Adopted as a puppy, he turned out to be too much dog for the family to handle. But Shevalier never considered taking him to the pound.
"I couldn't bear to think about him sitting in a cage all alone, wondering where we were," Shevalier said. After placing an ad and spreading the word, she eventually found a perfect home for the dog on a large farm near Rose Lake.
She said it saddened her to see all the animals caged at the shelter. She went there for one reason. "I wanted to save an animal's life."
Many shelters, including the Kootenai Humane Society, require that adopted pets be sterilized. It offers reduced costs for spaying and neutering. The result has been a decline in the number of animals euthanized.
The Kootenai Humane Society requires that adopted animals be spayed or neutered within six weeks of leaving the shelter.
Lakeland Litter Control in Rathdrum is one area spay and neuter clinic that performs the service. Veterinarian Sherron McKelvey said sterilization ideally would occur before an animal even leaves the shelter.
It's the only way to truly guarantee success," McKelvey said.
The public can help the animal shelter this busy time of year by providing foster care for animals or donating supplies, such as towels, blankets, cat litter, food, and cleaning supplies.
Kootenai Humane Society has also reduced the adoption rate by $10 for each animal in an effort to find more homes for more animals.
This sidebar appeared with the story:
Fast facts
Nationwide, as many as 10 million cats and dogs end up in animal shelters each year. About half are euthanized.
One fertile female cat can produce up to three litters in a year, with roughly four to six kittens per litter.
A fertile female dog can produce slightly less, having roughly two litters per year with six to 10 pups.
For more information on spaying or neutering, call your veterinarian or the Kootenai Humane Society at 772-4019.
Copyright 2002 Cowles Publishing Company
Provided by ProQuest Information and Learning Company. All rights Reserved.
bark collar: Help for gulf coast trees
At the request of tree groups affected by Hurricane Katrina, AMERICAN FORESTS has launched a Katrina ReLeaf Fund to provide money for local communities to restore their tree canopy when conditions permit.
The effort is being undertaken with a host of local partners from universities and state forestry groups in the affected states; replanting will occur when conditions permit in 2006. Donations made to Katrina ReLeaf (http://www.americanforests.org/planttrees/) will be eligible for federal matching funds. All proceeds from a September promotion with the online auction service eBAY also were directed toward Katrina ReLeaf.
As of press time, groups signed on as partners in Katrina ReLeaf included: U.S. Forest Service, Southeast Region; Southern University, Baton Rouge; Louisiana Forestry Commission; Louisiana Dept. of Forestry and Agriculture; Mississippi Forestry Commission; Alabama Forestry Commission; Alabama Cooperative Extension System; Mississippi Urban Forest Council; Louisiana Urban Forest Council; and Alabama Urban Forest Council.
AMERICAN FORESTS worked extensively with communities in south Florida in the wake of Hurricane Andrew, and lessons learned then can help those now dealing with Katrina, says Nancy Masterson, who served as AMERICAN FORESTS' rep in Florida.
One imporant lesson is that it is possible to save some downed trees. Restoring existing trees will help control stormwater, cool and clean the air, and remove toxins from groundwater, which is important now, especially in New Orleans. Trees also will restore a degree of the familiar to communities attempting to rebound from the disaster.
"We lost many valuable trees in the debris-clearing stage of recovery" after Andrew, Masterson says. "Had they been marked as salvageable, they could have been righted when time permitted." Trees in USDA growing zones 8 and 9 "will show vigor and resilience if they are saved by replanting," rather than allowed to be cut down.
Masterson offered the following tips:
1. Look for blown-down trees that were planted fairly recently and are still partially rooted. Cover as much of the root ball as possible with mulch, leaves, soil, or whatever is at hand. If possible, cover the root ball with burlap, sheets, or old blankets and wet it down; do not use plastic. If long lengths of root are exposed, cut cleanly to reduce water loss.
2. Post a sign--Save This Tree--or surround the tree with marker tape. It should survive until the next rainfall.
3. When residents return to replant, excavate a broad area on the windward side of the fallen tree. Make the hole wider than the width of the root ball and as deep. If you can't pull the tree to an erect position by hand, use a car or truck. When pulling up, protect the trunk with rags or soft material. Backfill the hole with soil and make a ring of dirt around the tree to help hold water.
4. Prune off damaged or broken branches at the branch bark collar, which is the slightly larger portion of the branch where it connects to the trunk. Do not cut inside this collar.
5. Mulch and water, then treat like a newly planted tree for the next three years, giving it frequent inspections and regular watering.
To contribute to AMERICAN FORESTS' Katrina ReLeaf, call 800/368-5748 or log onto our website at: http://www.americanforests.org/planttrees/.
COPYRIGHT 2005 American Forests
COPYRIGHT 2005 Gale Group
The effort is being undertaken with a host of local partners from universities and state forestry groups in the affected states; replanting will occur when conditions permit in 2006. Donations made to Katrina ReLeaf (http://www.americanforests.org/planttrees/) will be eligible for federal matching funds. All proceeds from a September promotion with the online auction service eBAY also were directed toward Katrina ReLeaf.
As of press time, groups signed on as partners in Katrina ReLeaf included: U.S. Forest Service, Southeast Region; Southern University, Baton Rouge; Louisiana Forestry Commission; Louisiana Dept. of Forestry and Agriculture; Mississippi Forestry Commission; Alabama Forestry Commission; Alabama Cooperative Extension System; Mississippi Urban Forest Council; Louisiana Urban Forest Council; and Alabama Urban Forest Council.
AMERICAN FORESTS worked extensively with communities in south Florida in the wake of Hurricane Andrew, and lessons learned then can help those now dealing with Katrina, says Nancy Masterson, who served as AMERICAN FORESTS' rep in Florida.
One imporant lesson is that it is possible to save some downed trees. Restoring existing trees will help control stormwater, cool and clean the air, and remove toxins from groundwater, which is important now, especially in New Orleans. Trees also will restore a degree of the familiar to communities attempting to rebound from the disaster.
"We lost many valuable trees in the debris-clearing stage of recovery" after Andrew, Masterson says. "Had they been marked as salvageable, they could have been righted when time permitted." Trees in USDA growing zones 8 and 9 "will show vigor and resilience if they are saved by replanting," rather than allowed to be cut down.
Masterson offered the following tips:
1. Look for blown-down trees that were planted fairly recently and are still partially rooted. Cover as much of the root ball as possible with mulch, leaves, soil, or whatever is at hand. If possible, cover the root ball with burlap, sheets, or old blankets and wet it down; do not use plastic. If long lengths of root are exposed, cut cleanly to reduce water loss.
2. Post a sign--Save This Tree--or surround the tree with marker tape. It should survive until the next rainfall.
3. When residents return to replant, excavate a broad area on the windward side of the fallen tree. Make the hole wider than the width of the root ball and as deep. If you can't pull the tree to an erect position by hand, use a car or truck. When pulling up, protect the trunk with rags or soft material. Backfill the hole with soil and make a ring of dirt around the tree to help hold water.
4. Prune off damaged or broken branches at the branch bark collar, which is the slightly larger portion of the branch where it connects to the trunk. Do not cut inside this collar.
5. Mulch and water, then treat like a newly planted tree for the next three years, giving it frequent inspections and regular watering.
To contribute to AMERICAN FORESTS' Katrina ReLeaf, call 800/368-5748 or log onto our website at: http://www.americanforests.org/planttrees/.
COPYRIGHT 2005 American Forests
COPYRIGHT 2005 Gale Group
bark collar: Bark Collar Information
Introduction to Bark Collars
Bark Collars are used to keep dogs from barking excessively. There are three main varieties, one is citronella based, another uses electric stimulation and another uses ultrasonic sound. All of these collars usually have a time delay so that the dog may bark up to 30 seconds before corrective action is taken. This in theory tells the dog that it?s ok to bark out of fear or anxiety, but not excessive barking coming from boredom. This type of conditioning has reported some success with dog owners with its use.
How Bark Collars Work
The citronella contains a spray can of citronella and a microphone to track the length of barking. When a threshold has been reached, a small amount of citronella is emitted. Dogs learn to associate the foul smell with their behavior and stop barking.
The electronic-based bark collar works similarly, except that it delivers a small shock to the dog rather than emit a foul smell. Dogs find the shock uncomfortable and thus stop barking. Because of the perceived pain involved with the shock, true or not, this method of bark control has become hotly debated.
The ultrasonic sound bark collar emits a sound wave only audible from a dog but that is loud enough for the dog to understand. The theory is the same; the dog associates the loud noise with barking enough to arrest their bark. This method is considered to be the least effective of the three bark collars however as the dog may adjust to the noise and not find it that intrusive.
Benefits of Use
The benefits of using a bark collar are unique in that you can control your dog?s behavior when you?re away and aren?t able use conventional training methods.
Proper Use of a Bark Collar
Before you use a bark collar, you should determine first why your dog is barking. These collars are not suited for all barking. They should not be used if your dog is barking out of fear, aggression or separation anxiety, as it can create unpredictable behavior in your dog and worsen the problem rather than make it better. Barking for fear is a proper response for a dog. Aggression, perhaps in defense or territorial invasion is a proper response for a dog as well. Separation anxiety and loneliness is easily treatable with proper training and attention. The situations best suited for using a bark collar is when your dog is barking for the sake of barking, likely from boredom.
Ethics and Arguments Related to the Bark Collar
Bark Collars are considered humane by most experts with the exception of electric or shock based collars. There isn?t any physical pain involved with citronella and ultrasonic sound based bark collars and the corrective action from it is really more of an annoyance. The owner should be proactive with this approach. Rather than look at a bark collar as a quick fix to end all barking, a responsible owner will determine first why their dog is barking, then take corrective measures from there.
More Information
Your can check out other articles related to dog training collars and bark collars here:
Dog Training Collars
Electric Dog Collars
Bark Collars are used to keep dogs from barking excessively. There are three main varieties, one is citronella based, another uses electric stimulation and another uses ultrasonic sound. All of these collars usually have a time delay so that the dog may bark up to 30 seconds before corrective action is taken. This in theory tells the dog that it?s ok to bark out of fear or anxiety, but not excessive barking coming from boredom. This type of conditioning has reported some success with dog owners with its use.
How Bark Collars Work
The citronella contains a spray can of citronella and a microphone to track the length of barking. When a threshold has been reached, a small amount of citronella is emitted. Dogs learn to associate the foul smell with their behavior and stop barking.
The electronic-based bark collar works similarly, except that it delivers a small shock to the dog rather than emit a foul smell. Dogs find the shock uncomfortable and thus stop barking. Because of the perceived pain involved with the shock, true or not, this method of bark control has become hotly debated.
The ultrasonic sound bark collar emits a sound wave only audible from a dog but that is loud enough for the dog to understand. The theory is the same; the dog associates the loud noise with barking enough to arrest their bark. This method is considered to be the least effective of the three bark collars however as the dog may adjust to the noise and not find it that intrusive.
Benefits of Use
The benefits of using a bark collar are unique in that you can control your dog?s behavior when you?re away and aren?t able use conventional training methods.
Proper Use of a Bark Collar
Before you use a bark collar, you should determine first why your dog is barking. These collars are not suited for all barking. They should not be used if your dog is barking out of fear, aggression or separation anxiety, as it can create unpredictable behavior in your dog and worsen the problem rather than make it better. Barking for fear is a proper response for a dog. Aggression, perhaps in defense or territorial invasion is a proper response for a dog as well. Separation anxiety and loneliness is easily treatable with proper training and attention. The situations best suited for using a bark collar is when your dog is barking for the sake of barking, likely from boredom.
Ethics and Arguments Related to the Bark Collar
Bark Collars are considered humane by most experts with the exception of electric or shock based collars. There isn?t any physical pain involved with citronella and ultrasonic sound based bark collars and the corrective action from it is really more of an annoyance. The owner should be proactive with this approach. Rather than look at a bark collar as a quick fix to end all barking, a responsible owner will determine first why their dog is barking, then take corrective measures from there.
More Information
Your can check out other articles related to dog training collars and bark collars here:
Dog Training Collars
Electric Dog Collars
bark collar: Spray Bark Collar
This listing is Expired and is no longer active.
Gently used Petsafe Spray Bark Control Collar in original box, in
excellent condition, new battery and all paperwork.
The PetSafe PSBC-300 Citronella Spray Bark Collar is the safe and
humane way to stop dog barking. Many owners have tried surgical
remedies or shock collars. This collar is perfect for the pet owner
that demands a safe, effective and humane bark control system.
The Spray Control Anti-Bark Collar is simple to operate. Place the
battery in the receiver collar and attach it around your dog’s neck.
When your dog barks, a burst of all-natural citrus spray is emitted,
which dogs find bothersome to their highly developed sense of smell.
While not harmful, it is a sufficient deterrent to excessive barking.
PetSafe PSBC-300 Citronella Spray Bark Collar Features:
Uses a burst of all-natural citrus spray to deter barking
For dogs of all sizes
CANNOT BE SET OFF BY ANOTHER DOG, like other brands
Waterproof
Safe, harmless, and effective even safe around children
Low battery indicator
Uses one 6 volt silver oxide battery
Low spray indicator
On/Off switch
Emits up to 80 sprays per refill (over twice that of any other
brand!)
Gently used Petsafe Spray Bark Control Collar in original box, in
excellent condition, new battery and all paperwork.
The PetSafe PSBC-300 Citronella Spray Bark Collar is the safe and
humane way to stop dog barking. Many owners have tried surgical
remedies or shock collars. This collar is perfect for the pet owner
that demands a safe, effective and humane bark control system.
The Spray Control Anti-Bark Collar is simple to operate. Place the
battery in the receiver collar and attach it around your dog’s neck.
When your dog barks, a burst of all-natural citrus spray is emitted,
which dogs find bothersome to their highly developed sense of smell.
While not harmful, it is a sufficient deterrent to excessive barking.
PetSafe PSBC-300 Citronella Spray Bark Collar Features:
Uses a burst of all-natural citrus spray to deter barking
For dogs of all sizes
CANNOT BE SET OFF BY ANOTHER DOG, like other brands
Waterproof
Safe, harmless, and effective even safe around children
Low battery indicator
Uses one 6 volt silver oxide battery
Low spray indicator
On/Off switch
Emits up to 80 sprays per refill (over twice that of any other
brand!)
bark collar: Humane Society inundated with pets
The Kootenai Humane Society shelter is severely overpopulated, inundated with pets acquired by kids who are now back in school.
The Hayden shelter now has 93 dogs and 151 cats - roughly 30 percent more animals than it is designed to handle. About one out of four animals taken in are eventually euthanized.
Joann Ingwerson, shelter director, said the reasons pets arrive are varied. For some, the signs on their cages make clear their crimes: "Wife didn't like dog" or "Neighbor didn't like dog."
The yearly back-to-school influx is an unfortunate pattern seen every year.
"We, as a society, are a disposable society. We get tired of something, and we dispose of it," Ingwerson said. "Our animals are no different."
Ingwerson suggests people try to fix pet problems before getting rid of them, such as buying a bark collar for a noisy dog.
If a pet truly needs a new home, she suggests placing a newspaper ad. This not only may save an animal's life, but helps new owners find compatible pets.
If you must bring your animal to the shelter, she said, call first. There may not be room.
"I like the shelter to be considered a last resort, not a first resort," Ingwerson said.
Coeur d'Alene resident Allison Shevalier recently adopted a springer spaniel. Junior has been a delight to the family of five.
Prior to adopting Junior, Shevalier said her family had a young golden retriever. Adopted as a puppy, he turned out to be too much dog for the family to handle. But Shevalier never considered taking him to the pound.
"I couldn't bear to think about him sitting in a cage all alone, wondering where we were," Shevalier said. After placing an ad and spreading the word, she eventually found a perfect home for the dog on a large farm near Rose Lake.
She said it saddened her to see all the animals caged at the shelter. She went there for one reason. "I wanted to save an animal's life."
Many shelters, including the Kootenai Humane Society, require that adopted pets be sterilized. It offers reduced costs for spaying and neutering. The result has been a decline in the number of animals euthanized.
The Kootenai Humane Society requires that adopted animals be spayed or neutered within six weeks of leaving the shelter.
Lakeland Litter Control in Rathdrum is one area spay and neuter clinic that performs the service. Veterinarian Sherron McKelvey said sterilization ideally would occur before an animal even leaves the shelter.
"It's the only way to truly guarantee success," McKelvey said.
The public can help the animal shelter this busy time of year by providing foster care for animals or donating supplies, such as towels, blankets, cat litter, food, and cleaning supplies.
Kootenai Humane Society has also reduced the adoption rate by $10 for each animal in an effort to find more homes for more animals.
This sidebar appeared with the story:
Fast facts
Nationwide, as many as 10 million cats and dogs end up in animal shelters each year. About half are euthanized.
One fertile female cat can produce up to three litters in a year, with roughly four to six kittens per litter.
A fertile female dog can produce slightly less, having roughly two litters per year with six to 10 pups.
For more information on spaying or neutering, call your veterinarian or the Kootenai Humane Society at 772-4019.
Copyright 2002 Cowles Publishing Company
Provided by ProQuest Information and Learning Company. All rights Reserved.
The Hayden shelter now has 93 dogs and 151 cats - roughly 30 percent more animals than it is designed to handle. About one out of four animals taken in are eventually euthanized.
Joann Ingwerson, shelter director, said the reasons pets arrive are varied. For some, the signs on their cages make clear their crimes: "Wife didn't like dog" or "Neighbor didn't like dog."
The yearly back-to-school influx is an unfortunate pattern seen every year.
"We, as a society, are a disposable society. We get tired of something, and we dispose of it," Ingwerson said. "Our animals are no different."
Ingwerson suggests people try to fix pet problems before getting rid of them, such as buying a bark collar for a noisy dog.
If a pet truly needs a new home, she suggests placing a newspaper ad. This not only may save an animal's life, but helps new owners find compatible pets.
If you must bring your animal to the shelter, she said, call first. There may not be room.
"I like the shelter to be considered a last resort, not a first resort," Ingwerson said.
Coeur d'Alene resident Allison Shevalier recently adopted a springer spaniel. Junior has been a delight to the family of five.
Prior to adopting Junior, Shevalier said her family had a young golden retriever. Adopted as a puppy, he turned out to be too much dog for the family to handle. But Shevalier never considered taking him to the pound.
"I couldn't bear to think about him sitting in a cage all alone, wondering where we were," Shevalier said. After placing an ad and spreading the word, she eventually found a perfect home for the dog on a large farm near Rose Lake.
She said it saddened her to see all the animals caged at the shelter. She went there for one reason. "I wanted to save an animal's life."
Many shelters, including the Kootenai Humane Society, require that adopted pets be sterilized. It offers reduced costs for spaying and neutering. The result has been a decline in the number of animals euthanized.
The Kootenai Humane Society requires that adopted animals be spayed or neutered within six weeks of leaving the shelter.
Lakeland Litter Control in Rathdrum is one area spay and neuter clinic that performs the service. Veterinarian Sherron McKelvey said sterilization ideally would occur before an animal even leaves the shelter.
"It's the only way to truly guarantee success," McKelvey said.
The public can help the animal shelter this busy time of year by providing foster care for animals or donating supplies, such as towels, blankets, cat litter, food, and cleaning supplies.
Kootenai Humane Society has also reduced the adoption rate by $10 for each animal in an effort to find more homes for more animals.
This sidebar appeared with the story:
Fast facts
Nationwide, as many as 10 million cats and dogs end up in animal shelters each year. About half are euthanized.
One fertile female cat can produce up to three litters in a year, with roughly four to six kittens per litter.
A fertile female dog can produce slightly less, having roughly two litters per year with six to 10 pups.
For more information on spaying or neutering, call your veterinarian or the Kootenai Humane Society at 772-4019.
Copyright 2002 Cowles Publishing Company
Provided by ProQuest Information and Learning Company. All rights Reserved.
bark collar: Does Your Dog Have a Barking Problem? Ask Your Neighbor, They Will Tell You!
Have you tossed and turned in bed at night because the sound of a barking dog is keeping you awake? How about the dog that barks off and on throughout the night? Just when things have quieted down and you have finally fallen asleep, you are jolted awake because your neighbor's dog has wound back up and started her barking, again. Individuals who live next to a "barker" may find their nerves at the breaking point, especially if the dog barks around the clock.
The yipping can grate on your nerves to the point where you are grinding your teeth and plotting ways to get rid of your neighbor's dog. Visions of a full nights sleep or a peaceful backyard cookout dance in your head, yet your daydreams are interrupted (yet again) when "Fluffy"decides it's time to start her barking back up. What can possibly be worse than this? Well, being the owner of this noisy canine is far worse.
Dog owners, who have a pooch that is constantly barking, are very much aware that their neighbors are upset. They are used to seeing their neighbors with bloodshot eyes and unfriendly expressions. Many of these dog owners may even have "run ins" with their neighbors over the annoying behavior of their dog. Others may have received citations or fines for being in breech of some noise ordinances in their town or neighborhood. What is a dog owner to do when they have a dog that has annoying (or down right disturbing) barking tendencies? They love their pet, yet they know their pet's barking is out of control. They also know their pet is tearing down their standing in the neighborhood.
The first step is to try to uncover the reason behind the continual barking. If you have had your dog for years and she has never displayed a tendency for barking before, you should have her evaluated at the vet's office. Older dogs may start barking if they are experiencing changes in their body. A dog that is suddenly losing her hearing or sight may be frightened. She may simply be trying to tell you that something is wrong with her. Older dogs who are experiencing arthritis--or other disease or disorder- may also start barking.
Countless barkers are simply having separation anxiety. The signs of separation anxiety in a dog can include these symptoms:
Your inside dog is your shadow. She follows you from room to room and doesn't seem to have "interests" that do not include you. Your inside or outside dog is aware when you are preparing to leave-and she becomes mournful or agitated. She may also do things for your attention and act excited in an attempt to get you to take her along. Your inside or outside dog barks nonstop when you are away. (You can have a neighbor monitor your dog's behavior or set up a video or tape recorder.) Your dog greets you with much enthusiasm, jumping . . . or even a weak bladder. Inside dogs do not like being placed outside and will stand at the door and bark to get back inside. Outside dogs will bark nonstop when you are away from home. They will also bark when you are indoors and they do not see you.
The last thing that dogs with separation anxiety need is punishment. They simply do not understand what they are being disciplined for. The best thing you can do is to teach your dog that she is going to be all-right while you are away. You can do this by going through the "motions" of leaving your home without actually doing so. This means you can put on your coat, gather your things, and pretend that you are leaving. Then don't. Repeat this, but next time go outside for a few minutes and then return. As you repeat this process, stay outside for a few minutes longer. This will gradually work up the amount of time your dog is alone and she realizes that she is going to be okay. You can also leave a special treat or chew toy behind to distract her from your leaving.
You can do this with an outside dog, too. Simply go outside like you are preparing to leave. Open your car door. Stand there a few minutes, then shut your car door and go back inside. Next time, go back outside and sit in your car for a few moments. Extend the amount of time you are in your car. You can work this up to driving down the block, then around the block twice, etc. You can have a neighbor or family member secretly monitor how long your dog stays quiet.
One of the important things to remember when you have a dog with separation anxiety barking is to make your arrivals and departures very low key. Do not overly greet them, or sadly tell them good-bye. This will only aggravate them. While some individuals would never dream of leaving home without telling their pets good-bye, it usually only upsets a dog with separation anxiety disorder.
Another thing you can do if you have an outside dog with separation anxiety is to evaluate if they are being socially neglected. Most dogs have a pack mentality, and they need to feel as if they belong. Make sure you are spending adequate time with your dog. Ensure that her area is full of toys and playthings that will keep her entertained while you are away. There are many families who found their dog quieted once they got her a playmate. If this does not help, there are anxiety medications which you can get from your vet. These will usually keep your dog calm and relaxed while you are away.
If your dog has been checked by a vet and she is healthy, and if you are certain your dog does not have separation anxiety . . . you may just have a dog with a major "quirk." After you try the many techniques to get your dog not to bark, you may have to try a new approach. This can include squirting them with a water hose/water bottle or placing a barking collar on them.
There are some pet owners who assume that all barking collars are "shock collars." This is not true. There is a bark collar which will squirt liquid on your dog when she barks. If you know your dog will hush when she is squirted with a hose, this collar can work for you while you are away, or at night. Check out the various barking collars on the market and find one you are comfortable with. But, keep in mind that there are some canines who will bark, despite the barking collar they are wearing.
As a last resort some dog owners (who find there is nothing to keep their dog from barking) will sometimes have their dog's "bark" removed. This concept is quite shocking to a dog owner who has never experienced the problem of having a severe barker in their family. However, this doesn't mean a dog will not be able to bark. This surgery just brings a dogs bark down to a quieter and softer level. It should be noted that many dogs which are in dog shelters are put to sleep on a regular basis because of their incessant barking. If your dog has a severe barking problem, this option is certainly preferred over euthanasia or moving to a secluded island.
Copyright © 2005, Ian White
Author Ian White is founder of http://www.pet-Sitters.biz which specializes in helping pet sitters and pet owners connect to each other. Find and screen a sitter for your pet or advertise your pet care business.
The yipping can grate on your nerves to the point where you are grinding your teeth and plotting ways to get rid of your neighbor's dog. Visions of a full nights sleep or a peaceful backyard cookout dance in your head, yet your daydreams are interrupted (yet again) when "Fluffy"decides it's time to start her barking back up. What can possibly be worse than this? Well, being the owner of this noisy canine is far worse.
Dog owners, who have a pooch that is constantly barking, are very much aware that their neighbors are upset. They are used to seeing their neighbors with bloodshot eyes and unfriendly expressions. Many of these dog owners may even have "run ins" with their neighbors over the annoying behavior of their dog. Others may have received citations or fines for being in breech of some noise ordinances in their town or neighborhood. What is a dog owner to do when they have a dog that has annoying (or down right disturbing) barking tendencies? They love their pet, yet they know their pet's barking is out of control. They also know their pet is tearing down their standing in the neighborhood.
The first step is to try to uncover the reason behind the continual barking. If you have had your dog for years and she has never displayed a tendency for barking before, you should have her evaluated at the vet's office. Older dogs may start barking if they are experiencing changes in their body. A dog that is suddenly losing her hearing or sight may be frightened. She may simply be trying to tell you that something is wrong with her. Older dogs who are experiencing arthritis--or other disease or disorder- may also start barking.
Countless barkers are simply having separation anxiety. The signs of separation anxiety in a dog can include these symptoms:
Your inside dog is your shadow. She follows you from room to room and doesn't seem to have "interests" that do not include you. Your inside or outside dog is aware when you are preparing to leave-and she becomes mournful or agitated. She may also do things for your attention and act excited in an attempt to get you to take her along. Your inside or outside dog barks nonstop when you are away. (You can have a neighbor monitor your dog's behavior or set up a video or tape recorder.) Your dog greets you with much enthusiasm, jumping . . . or even a weak bladder. Inside dogs do not like being placed outside and will stand at the door and bark to get back inside. Outside dogs will bark nonstop when you are away from home. They will also bark when you are indoors and they do not see you.
The last thing that dogs with separation anxiety need is punishment. They simply do not understand what they are being disciplined for. The best thing you can do is to teach your dog that she is going to be all-right while you are away. You can do this by going through the "motions" of leaving your home without actually doing so. This means you can put on your coat, gather your things, and pretend that you are leaving. Then don't. Repeat this, but next time go outside for a few minutes and then return. As you repeat this process, stay outside for a few minutes longer. This will gradually work up the amount of time your dog is alone and she realizes that she is going to be okay. You can also leave a special treat or chew toy behind to distract her from your leaving.
You can do this with an outside dog, too. Simply go outside like you are preparing to leave. Open your car door. Stand there a few minutes, then shut your car door and go back inside. Next time, go back outside and sit in your car for a few moments. Extend the amount of time you are in your car. You can work this up to driving down the block, then around the block twice, etc. You can have a neighbor or family member secretly monitor how long your dog stays quiet.
One of the important things to remember when you have a dog with separation anxiety barking is to make your arrivals and departures very low key. Do not overly greet them, or sadly tell them good-bye. This will only aggravate them. While some individuals would never dream of leaving home without telling their pets good-bye, it usually only upsets a dog with separation anxiety disorder.
Another thing you can do if you have an outside dog with separation anxiety is to evaluate if they are being socially neglected. Most dogs have a pack mentality, and they need to feel as if they belong. Make sure you are spending adequate time with your dog. Ensure that her area is full of toys and playthings that will keep her entertained while you are away. There are many families who found their dog quieted once they got her a playmate. If this does not help, there are anxiety medications which you can get from your vet. These will usually keep your dog calm and relaxed while you are away.
If your dog has been checked by a vet and she is healthy, and if you are certain your dog does not have separation anxiety . . . you may just have a dog with a major "quirk." After you try the many techniques to get your dog not to bark, you may have to try a new approach. This can include squirting them with a water hose/water bottle or placing a barking collar on them.
There are some pet owners who assume that all barking collars are "shock collars." This is not true. There is a bark collar which will squirt liquid on your dog when she barks. If you know your dog will hush when she is squirted with a hose, this collar can work for you while you are away, or at night. Check out the various barking collars on the market and find one you are comfortable with. But, keep in mind that there are some canines who will bark, despite the barking collar they are wearing.
As a last resort some dog owners (who find there is nothing to keep their dog from barking) will sometimes have their dog's "bark" removed. This concept is quite shocking to a dog owner who has never experienced the problem of having a severe barker in their family. However, this doesn't mean a dog will not be able to bark. This surgery just brings a dogs bark down to a quieter and softer level. It should be noted that many dogs which are in dog shelters are put to sleep on a regular basis because of their incessant barking. If your dog has a severe barking problem, this option is certainly preferred over euthanasia or moving to a secluded island.
Copyright © 2005, Ian White
Author Ian White is founder of http://www.pet-Sitters.biz which specializes in helping pet sitters and pet owners connect to each other. Find and screen a sitter for your pet or advertise your pet care business.
